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The fuzzy, the fake, the double - Trouble in ornament

Le flou, le faux, le double - Trouble dans l'ornement

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Published on Wednesday, October 11, 2017


Pour son deuxième partenariat avec Paris College of Art, la garantie, association pour lebijou propose un colloque sur le regard, et part du principe que l’ornement est d’autant plusintéressant qu’il est “mal vu”. Les six intervenants, français et étrangers, proposeront différentes analyses de ces visions imparfaites, afin de “croiser” le bijou avec les politiques du corps, laquestion du flou et du faux, de la censure et du « non-vu », de la mascarade et du semblant. Ces thèmes, très différents, sont tous traversés par une idée d’identification centrale à l’histoiredu bijou, mais aussi à l’administration des personnes. Nous essayerons de saisir le lien entreornement et identification, pour évoquer aussi les gestes de résistance qui s’y opposent.



For its second partnership with the Paris College of Art, la garantie, association for jewellery proposes a seminar, which focuses on the perception of jewellery, and intends to question how ornaments are all the more interesting as they are “seen badly”. The day is organized in intelligence with the symposium organized the day before at the Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris (October 12, Matisse room, 10 am - 5.30 pm). It receives the support of the association D’un bijou à l’Autre, and will be held in French and English. This event is part of the Parcours Bijoux 2017.

La garantie, association for jewellery, proposes to follow up on the three seminars it has already organized around jewellery and to concentrate, on the occasion of the Parcours du Bijou 2017, on visions of the adorned body.

This symposium falls within of a wider topical reflection on “the thickness of the superficial”: our working hypothesis is that ornamentation participates in multiple ideological and identity - and not only artistic - games. However, we want to question the notion that ornament is necessarily ostentatious, that it always makes a show of itself in order to focus and educate the onlooker’s gaze. We will start from the assumption that jewellery also accompanies strategies of obfuscation: it blinds, muddies its own tracks, feigns, and can be the mark of marginal or marginalized communities. These dodging strategies strangely echo some censorship techniques: together, they delimit a singular rhetorical space of self-disclosure / refutation.

Fourteen speakers from different nationalities will discuss these imperfect visions, and the objects and accoutrements that generate them. They will seek out ornamentation where it engages with the fuzzy, the fake, the “not seen”, and the not visible. Some of these themes are under discussion in visual studies, the history of law, philosophy and anthropology: this encounter reasserts la garantie’s resolutely interdisciplinary outlook. The seminar will conclude with a critical discussion of the thematic and scenographic choices governing the exhibition Medusa, Bijoux et Tabous (Museum of Modern Art), with the three people who conceived it.


9h30 – 10h00

Welcome and introduction |  Bienvenue et introduction

10h00 – 11h30

Panel discussion with | Table ronde avec

  • Laure Carbonnel (anthropologist | ethnologue)
  • Philippe Liotard (sociologist | sociologue)
  • Massimiliano Mocchia di Coggiola (art and fashion historian | historien de l'art et de la mode)

Arresting the gaze: sartorial stories of dissidence and marginality.

Arrêter le regard: histoires vestimentaires de dissidences et de marginalités

In French and English  |  En Français et anglais

11h45 – 12h45

Ariane Temkine & Paul Brocart (Queer and feminist theorists | théoricien.ne.s en études queer et féministes)

Material strategies for passing; subversive, conformist and strategic approaches.

Stratégies matérielles du «passing», approches subversive, conformistes et stratégiques

In French | En français

12h45 – 13h30

Lunch break | déjeuner

13h45 – 14h30

Alena Alexandrova (philosopher and culture theorist | philosophe et théoricienne de la culture)

That Dangerous Luxury | Ce luxe dangereux

In English| En anglais

14h45 – 15h30

Frédéric F. Martin (historian of law | historien du droit)

Jewelry, visibility and censorship. On jewelry as normative device | Bijou, visibilité et censure. Sur l’ornement comme dispositif normatif

In French | En français

15h45 – 16h30

Marie Canet (art historian | historienne de l’art)

On Brice Dellsperger’s Body Double | Sur Body Double de Brice Dellsperger

In French | En français

16h30 – 17h00

Break | Pause


Panel discussion with | Table ronde avec

  • Anne Dressen (curator | curatrice)
  • Michèle Heuzé (jewellery historian)
  • Benjamin Lignel (artist | artiste)

Discutants/ Convenors :

  • Aurélie Chatenet-Calyste (historienne | historian)
  • Frédéric F. Martin (historian of law | historien du droit)
  • Namita Wiggers (curator | curatrice)

Looking back at Medusa, Jewellery and Taboos | Retour sur Medusa, Bijoux et Tabous

In French and English | En Français et anglais


Project coordinator: Benjamin Lignel

Programming: Brune Boyer, Benjamin Lignel, and Caroline Volcovici


The fuzzy, the fake, the double - Trouble in ornament

A one-day seminar at Paris College of Art

October 13, 2017

9:30AM – 6:30PM

Cost of ticket: 5 euros

Registration: Here



  • Paris College of Art - 15, rue Fénelon
    Paris, France (75010)


  • Friday, October 13, 2017

Attached files


  • Ornement, bijoux, passing


  • Brune BOYER
    courriel : brune [dot] boyer [at] noos [dot] fr

Reference Urls

Information source

  • Brune BOYER
    courriel : brune [dot] boyer [at] noos [dot] fr


CC0-1.0 This announcement is licensed under the terms of Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal.

To cite this announcement

« The fuzzy, the fake, the double - Trouble in ornament », Study days, Calenda, Published on Wednesday, October 11, 2017, https://calenda.org/418740

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