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Patrimonios alimentarios, turismos y sostenibilidades

V congreso internacional del Observatorio de la alimentación y la fundación Alicia

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Published on Tuesday, August 07, 2018


El patrimonio alimentario, como el «patrimonio» en general, ha sido considerado tanto como una construcción socio-cultural, con capacidad para representar simbólicamente una identidad, como una industria de valores añadidos. Por parte de numerosos gobiernos, estatales o regionales, existe una voluntad de conocer el patrimonio alimentario de las poblaciones con el propósito de proponer políticas de fomento productivo y de iniciar procesos de desarrollo local mediante la valorización de los productos y cocinas locales. Las gastronomías locales forman parte, cada vez más, de los recursos susceptibles de ser explotados por parte de la oferta turística. Turismo y restauración no solamente contribuyen a la valoración de la cocina tradicional y a su posible recuperación si no, también, a su transformación y redefinición, bajo parámetros diversos y, a veces, contradictorios: por un lado, «selección», «reducción» y «simplificación» de aquellos platos y productos considerados representativos; y por otro, «idealización», «replicación» y generalización...


Barcelona, 18- 21 June 2019


Food heritage, like heritage in general, has been considered both a socio-cultural construction ̶ which can symbolically represent an identity ̶ and an added-value  industry.  The  political-cultural  logic  emerges  from  the  desire  to recover cultural elements which, having disappeared or being in the process of disappearing, are considered an expression of identity. The commercial logic, on the other hand, tends towards appropriating as part of “heritage” anything that can be turned into a commodity, either because of its dimension as entertainment or as an object of consumption. These dimensions can be either exclusive or complementary.

Based on what has happened so far, it can be stated that all the knowledge and practices related to the production, transformation, distribution and consumption of food, and which are transmitted across generations within a region or community, make up a collective heritage. All of these elements are manifestations of an important biocultural diversity

̶ they constitute an irreplaceable common legacy and occupy a specific space, still to be defined,   within the   agri-food universe. The diversity of terms used  to  designate  these  different  elements  ("traditional",  "typical", "specific", "authentic", "local", "premium"...) points to the difficulty of characterising and assessing this knowledge     and these practices.

The main obstacle lies precisely in the cultural dimension of heritage. It involves aspects which are difficult to objectify or “normalise”, such as memory, tradition, identity, transmission and behaviour. Another difficulty is that it is a living heritage in many different ways, with all the problems involved in its management and maintenance. In addition, turning something into heritage causes a shift in its status, turning products specific to a local culture into premium products appreciated beyond their place of origin. Therefore, this conversion into cultural heritage, with its immaterial, fluctuating and pliable nature, becomes difficult to manage for the various stakeholders involved.

Many state and regional governments are actively seeking to learn about the food heritage of their populations in order to promote policies for production development and to boost local development through the promotion of local products and cuisine. Local cuisines are increasingly becoming resources that can be exploited as part of the tourist offer. The tourism and catering industries not only contribute to the promotion of traditional cuisine and its possible recovery, but also to its transformation and redefinition, under varying and sometimes conflicting parameters: on the one hand, the "selection", "reduction" and "simplification" of specific dishes and products considered to be representative, and on the other, their "idealisation", "replication" and propagation.

Indeed, the success of this food-as-heritage construct raises some specific concerns related to the production sector and its short-, medium- and long-term sustainability, in terms of its impact on the land and landscape, resources, activities, profits, and even local, regional and state-level food policies.

Given the possibilities for comparison offered by the international dimension of this Conference, the questions below are proposed as an invitation to participate and contribute answers based on our own diversity of experiences, countries, approaches, problems, types of involvement, responsibilities, etc.

Who are the main agents turning food into heritage, and what are their aims? What criteria have been used for the construction of a food heritage? How are environmental, social and economic benefits generated from the promotion of food heritage, and who are its beneficiaries?

Are the traditional know-how, food practices and local cuisines recognised as markers of living identities and cultures? How can such large and varied diversity be analysed? Are there practices, social groups or regions which are discriminated against in the food heritage map?

Is it necessary to change the strategies for turning “typical, local or traditional” cuisine into heritage in a world in which not only products, techniques and practices have been globalised at a speed never seen before, but also trends, fashions, values, information and food critiques?

From the point of view of food heritage and its sustainability, is tourism a right, a resource, an intrusion, a threat...? Does it bring about benefits and damages, "winners" and "losers"?

In the case of so-called rural tourism and food & wine tourism, what connections can be found between an experiential offer, visit or workshop, and the dedication to a "genuine" praxis? To what extent can the need to preserve this “genuine” praxis be questioned (beyond the need to define it more or less traditionally, adapt it to reality, develop it as a business model, invent new professionals, train them…)?

If global urbanites have discovered a source of well-being and entertainment in tradition, can rural and tradition-rooted communities be denied the possibility to boost their local products through their adaptation, innovation and creativity?

Faced with growing concern about food planning, supply and access to healthy and sustainable food in large cities, what role does food heritage play in securing this right? And what role does it play in the reformulation of the relationship between the countryside and the city? Or in development models and the transformation of the food system?

Planned thematic areas / Roundtables

  • Food heritage is intangible. Should it be immutable?
  • Does tourism sustain or destroy food heritage?
  • Can religious food practices be made into heritage?
  • Certifications and heritage agents: from Guarantee of Origin (GO) to Green Labels.
  • The role of the restaurant business in the preservation of food heritage.
  • The diversity of heritage strategies: an international comparison.
  • How to create sustainable tourism destinations based on culinary heritage?
  • "What you can't see does not exist": the role of media in the dissemination of food heritage.
  • Sustainability, and food planning policies in urban areas.
  • Local cuisines as candidates to Intangible Cultural Heritage.
  • Inequalities and conflicts in food heritage strategies.
  • Social movements, food sovereignty and food heritage.
  • Knowledge, beliefs and practices of local cuisines.
  • Uses and abuses of food heritage.
  • Can industrial food heritage exist?
  • Nationalisms, regionalisms and food heritage.
  • Agrarian landscapes and products of the earth as tourism assets.
  • Health values as a resource in food heritage strategies.
  • Food heritage in museums.
  • Markets as landscapes of culinary heritage and gastronomic tourism.

Paper submissions

Those interested should send the abstract of their papers (minimum 300 maximum 500 words)

by 30 September 2018

to the following email address: congreso2019@odela.org. The abstracts can be submitted in Spanish, Catalan, English, Portuguese and French. Along with the abstract the following information should also be included (audiovisual proposals such as films, documentaries, short films, etc. will also be accepted).

The following information must be included with the abstract:

Paper proposals:

  • Title of the research paper
  • Full name of author/authors (please specify main author if several)
  • Professional and/or personal address
  • Contact phone number
  • Email address
  • Short biographical note (maximum 150 words).

Audiovisual proposals:

  • Film title
  • Film synopsis
  • Filmmakers, year and country of production, production company, length and format
  • Language (the film may have any original language, but subtitles in Spanish or English are required)
  • Link to the film trailer (and to the website, if any)
  • Name of the speaker (specify the main one in case of multiple; explicit the relationship with the film)
  • Professional or personal address
  • Telephone
  • Email address
  • Brief biographical note of the speaker (150 words, max.)

Acceptance of papers will be notified on 15 November 2018.

Date of the next update: late November 2018.

Organizing Committee

congreso2019@odela.org, Observatorio de la Alimentación (Universidad de Barcelona)

  • Pau Alcover
  • Arantza Begueria
  • Mariona Castellví
  • Dr. Jesús Contreras
  • Montse Fàbregas
  • Dr. Jordi Gascón
  • Dra. Cristina Larrea
  • Toni Massanés
  • Dr. Francisco Xavier
  • Medina Patrícia Messa
  • Dra. Margalida Mulet
  • Dra. Araceli Muñoz

Scientific Committee

  • Dra. Maria Clara Prata Gaspar
  • Dr. Joan Ribas
  • Dra. Elena Roura Marta Ruiz
  • Dra. Úrsula Verthein
  • Dra. Isabel Álvarez (Universidad San Martin de Porres, Perú)
  • Dra. Sílvia Aulet (Universitat de Girona, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Sara Back-Geller (Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México, México)
  • Dra. Miriam Bertran (Universidad Autónoma Metropolitana-Xochimilco, México)
  • Dr. Oriol Bertran (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Jacinthe Béssiere (Université de Toulouse – Jean-Jaurès, Francia)
  • Loïc Bienassis (IEHCA, Francia)
  • Dr. Josep Boatella (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Antonella Campanini (Università di Scienze Gastronomiche di Pollenzo, Italia)
  • Damien Conaré (Chaire UNESCO Alimentations du Monde, Francia)
  • Dr. Ferran Estrada (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dr. Julien Frayssignes (Ecole d'Ingénieurs de Purpan, Francia)
  • Dr. Joan Frigolé (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dr. Jordi Gascón (Universitat de Lleida, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Isabel González Turmo (Universidad de Sevilla, España)
  • Dra. Cristina Larrea Killinger (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Maria Eunice Maciel (Universidade federal do Rio Grande do Sul, Brasil)
  • Dra. Camila del Mármol (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Toni Massanés (Fundació Alicia, Catalunya)
  • Dr. Francisco Xavier Medina (Universitat Oberta de Catalunya, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Sonia Montecino (Universidad de Chile, Chile)
  • Dra. Myriam Paredes (Facultad Latinoamericana de Ciencias Sociales - Sede Quito, Ecuador)
  • Emma Pla (Escuela de Hostelería y Turismo CETT - Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dra. Nika Razpotnik Viskovic (Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts, Eslovenia)
  • Dr. Joan Ribas (Fundació Alicia / Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)
  • Dr. Agustín Santana (Universidad de La Laguna, España)
  • Dr. Cristian Terry (University of Lausanne, Suiza)
  • Dr. Jordi Tresserras Juan (Universitat de Barcelona, Catalunya)


  • Barcelona, Kingdom of Spain


  • Friday, September 28, 2018


  • alimentación, patrimonio alimentario, turismo, sostenibilidad, gastronomia, restauración, cocina local, identidad alimentaria


  • Observatorio de la Alimentación
    courriel : congreso2019 [at] odela [dot] org

Information source

  • Maria Clara de Moraes Prata Gaspar
    courriel : congreso2019 [at] odela [dot] org


CC0-1.0 This announcement is licensed under the terms of Creative Commons CC0 1.0 Universal.

To cite this announcement

« Patrimonios alimentarios, turismos y sostenibilidades », Call for papers, Calenda, Published on Tuesday, August 07, 2018, https://doi.org/10.58079/10qf

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