HomeThe Sources of Colour: the Gobelins Dyeing Workshop

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The Sources of Colour: the Gobelins Dyeing Workshop

Aux sources de la couleur. L’atelier de teinture des Gobelins 

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Published on Monday, February 08, 2021Monday, February 08, 2021 by João Fernandes

Summary

Jehan Gobelin, a dyer from Reims, set up a workshop in the mid fifteenth century not far from the BièvreRiver, whose water was particularly suitable for dyeing purposes. His descendants, who were experts inthe dyeing of wool in Venice scarlet, soon acquired vast stretches of land that ran alongside the Bièvre andconstructed large workshops. Henri IV rented them and had tapestry workshops installed on the sites. This rich diachronic and multidisciplinary history is the topic of these study days, the first ever devoted tothe Gobelins dyeing workshop, in its long history. Based on unprecedented sources or sources seen from afresh perspective, these study days aims to focus on the latest knowledge concerning the dyeing workshop.

Announcement

The National Institute of Art History (Institut National d’Histoire d’Art, INHA), in conjunctionwith the Archives Nationales and the Mobilier National, will be holding two study days specifically devoted to the Gobelins dyeing workshop.

Presentation

Jehan Gobelin, a dyer from Reims, set up a workshop in the mid fifteenth century not far from the BièvreRiver, whose water was particularly suitable for dyeing purposes. His descendants, who were experts inthe dyeing of wool in Venice scarlet, soon acquired vast stretches of land that ran alongside the Bièvre andconstructed large workshops. Henri IV rented them and had tapestry workshops installed on the sites.

In 1662, Colbert acquired the property for the Crown, and he brought together and placed the various workshops under the direction of Charles Le Brun. To reorganise the dyeing workshop, Le Brun solicited the help of a Dutch master dyer, Josse Kerchove. Since this time, the Gobelins dyeing workshop, which is the oldest European workshop of its kind that has been operating continuously since its foundation, has remained in the same place inside the Gobelins enclosure, to the north of the chapel. This rich diachronic and multidisciplinary history is the topic of these study days, the first ever devoted tothe Gobelins dyeing workshop, in its long history. Based on unprecedented sources or sources seen from afresh perspective, these study days aims to focus on the latest knowledge concerning the dyeing workshop.

Main themes

Using new research findings and sources compiled since 2015 by the teams working at the Mobilier Nationaland made available to researchers, various themes will be addressed during these study days:

- the role of the dyeing workshop in the evolution of regulatory texts relating to the métier of dyer, from Colbert’s reorganisation to the beginning of the twentieth century;

- the contributions made by the successive directors of the dyeing workshop;generally speaking, all prosopographicalresearch into the staff working in the dyeing workshop is welcome;

- the contributions made by industrial chemistry to all of the fabric preparatory and dyeing processes;

- the school of dyeing founded at the beginning of the nineteenth century by the Gobelins and the coursesheld by Chevreul, which were replaced by instruction in dyeing in Paris, throughout the nineteenth century(similar training was provided by Payen and Persoz at the Centre National des Arts et Métiers (CNAM), and in the 1830s in Lyon, Mulhouse, and Rouen);

- the status of national laboratory of expertise acquired by the dyeing workshop in the nineteenth century,initially during the First Empire in relation to the manufacture of Lyon silks, and subsequently in the context ofthe development of the dyeing industries in the colonies (madder and cochineal in Algeria; indigo in Senegal),and more generally in the Western world.

For each of these themes, information about other dyeing workshops or other international experiences involving the transmission of knowledge and dyeing techniques is very welcome, from a comparative viewpoint.Likewise, the participation of researchers conducting studies into the history of the sciences, history, literature,textile design, and colour, or in the conservation sciences is particularly welcome.

The conference will be held both online and face-to-face, requiring particular care with regard tothe way in which the discussions are conducted. We will ask participants to focus on their statements very precisely for fifteen minutes to optimise the discussion times. Participants may communicate in French or in English.

Submission guidelines

The offers of information (2,000 characters), accompanied by a short biography/bibliography, must be sent

before 31 March 2021

to: marie-anne.sarda@inha. fr and alexia.raimondo@culture.gouv.fr

Scientific and organisational committee

  • Muriel Barbier (the Mobilier National)
  • Anne-Laure Carré (the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, CNAM)
  • Hélène Cavalié (the Mobilier National)
  • Claude Coupry (the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique, CNRS)
  • Joëlle Garcia (the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle)
  • Clémence Lescuyer (the Archives Nationales)
  • Alexia Raimondo (the Archives Nationales)
  • Charlotte Ribeyrol (Paris-Sorbonne University)
  • Marie-Anne Sarda (Institut National d’Histoire d’Art, INHA)

Places

  • 2 rue vivienne
    Paris, France (75)

Date(s)

  • Wednesday, March 31, 2021Wednesday, March 31, 2021

Keywords

  • Gobelins, teinture, teinturier, couleus, textile, chimie industrielle, industrie tinctoriale, colorant

Contact(s)

  • Alexia Raimondo
    courriel : alexia [dot] raimondo [at] culture [dot] gouv [dot] fr
  • Marie-Anne Sarda
    courriel : marie-anne [dot] sarda [at] inha [dot] fr

Information source

  • Alexia Raimondo
    courriel : alexia [dot] raimondo [at] culture [dot] gouv [dot] fr

To cite this announcement

« The Sources of Colour: the Gobelins Dyeing Workshop », Call for papers, Calenda, Published on Monday, February 08, 2021Monday, February 08, 2021, https://calenda.org/838136

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